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Setting up your CCD imaging system

The biggest factor in successful imaging is having all the components work well together. That can be you as the controller making it all work together.? But, good integrated software and hardware can help significantly. Both AP and Paramount GEM's are excellent.? I haven't had the opportunity to work with mounts of similar quality from TAK or Parallax, but I'm sure they are quite nice as well.? I don't think you will go wrong with the Paramount. You can get it right now.? And the price is reasonable. Best of all, the software is all tested and integrated.

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So if you have decided on the Paramount... good.? Next you need to know what to do with the optical train.? I have a C14. While it is a beautiful instrument for the money I spent, it does have? few problems.?One thing that I don't like is the coma that I have at the edge of the field on images.? Another thing I don't like is that it is?very difficult to get pin point star images.? I strongly recommend that you take a look at some of my recent images to see what I am complaining about at:? https://plettstone.com/new.htm These issues may or may not be an issue for most folks. I don't seem to have the mirror shift problems that others have on the mailing lists.? In fact, for minor focusing, none of my SCT's have "lost" the focus star from the chip area while I am fine focusing.? A C14 or a Meade 12" would both serve well as observatory instruments.? If you purchase used equipment, you can sell it later on to upgrade.? The scope is not a real brain teaser.? The camera is.?

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I recommend that you get a camera that can be temperature regulated.? Without regulation, you'll be shooting lots and lots of dark frames.? Regulation is a huge factor in consistency. Another thing you need to decide is if you want Anti Blooming or not.? Many of the expert imagers that I know choose not to get this feature because it severely expands exposure time for faint detail.? You'll also need to figure out the field of view you are interested in.? I'm using an ST8 which is a beautiful camera. But with a C14 at F7, the FOV is only 12 minutes or so. This makes it extremely difficult to shoot guided exposures unless you are willing to do flat frame exposures throughout the night. Each time you rotate your camera, to find a guide star, you'll need to shoot another set of flats.? An ST8 or equivelant is definitely the way to go with a long focal length instrument. The FOV is much larger so that you can afford to put that object in the lower left hand quadrant to catch a guide star.? What I have done is create the "poor man's" version by using an F3.3 focal reducer. This works pretty good but it is not the same quality as the ST8. The 3.3 reducer exacerbates the OTA's coma as well as showing off an unusual feature of the ST7 camera design... a physical bar runs through the camera which blocks some light when using a focal reducer. The effect is not a killer and for the most part is reduced with proper flats. This set up gives me almost 20 minutes FOV and affords a reasonable guide star right where I want one fairly often.

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My dream setup would be a 12.5" RC, an ST8 camera, the SBIG A0-7, and my Paramount.? I may never get the RC due to the cost.? But I am planning to upgrade to the ST8 someday and to get the A0-7.